Region: ummm...I live in Ohio, so whatever that is
Car #: working on that (eleventy billion +2)
Year : 1992 Posts: 22
I am having a hell of a time removing the PPF bolt with the collar that goes into the rear dif. I have sprayed and heated it but it is not wanting to turn much. I have gotten it to make 10 complete turns (which took all of my strength with a 3-foot breaker bar) but it is not getting easier, and im not sure if anything is really happening. I was hoping it would break or something so i could at least get it over with. Am I doing something wrong? I don't exactly know what to do with the collar. Any advice would be appreciated. BTW - If I buy a Mazdaspeed comp rear dif, does it replace all the housing so i dont have to worry about the broken off bolt?
-------------------- lalalalala...floating around in a cloud of ignorant bliss...
Car #: 54 & 84
Year : 1992 & 1990 Posts: 663
3Ft I had to use a 4ft bar and brace my feet against the wheel to get enough leverage! They do come out.. Be sure to use a 6pt impact type socket and eye protection in case anything snaps.... Take it slow and they should come out eventually.
If you get a Comp diff, it will only be the inards. You will need to transfer you ring gear to it. Have an experienced shop do the setup and install unless you are familiar with the procedure
Region: Milwaukee/Midwestern Council
Car #: 23
Year : 1999 Posts: 480
I had a heck of time getting mine to come out also and we ended up using an oxy-acetylene torch get them to break loose after we removed the ppf and the diff case together. We are pretty sure we put a few twists in the bolts before they finally came out.
The diff is only the internals of the case not either sections of the housing. If you call Mazdaspeed and tell them you need the 2 bolts for the diff end of the PPF they will know what you need and send them out to you.
Car #: 63
Year : 1991 Posts: 735
Big ass bolt with a hammer tap in and then pull down. I use a bolt left over from building my deck. It is about 1/2" in diameter and about 10" long. Not sure of the size. I call it my PPF SST tool. I sell them for $50
PS: Kidding on the price for the non-light at heart. Or better yet, no I am not kidding and sure I will take your money...fool
I tried an impact wrench on the PPF bolt and it didn't work. After a long time with the impact wrench, the impact socket broke. So I got a big-ass cheater bar on a breaker bar with an impact socket, and broke another impact socket. Then I tried the impact wrench again and finally rounded off the bolt head. So I removed the PPF and diff as an assembly and cut the bolt head off with a cutoff wheel and a dremel tool. After cutting the bolt, spacer, etc. I finally got it apart. I put it back together will all new bolts and spacers, so it should be a lot easier next time.
Car #: 60
Year : ITA Posts: 59
For the benefit of the "mildly experienced" (read; "me") can I have a little more info on the IR231a? I have run into these insane torque values before (water pump on my wife's Civic) but just don't have the tools.
I do have an air compressor, but it's a small one. It only develops about 110 p.s.i.
Thanks, in advance.
-------------------- Mike ITA/7 RX-7 #60 1990 RX-7 Convertible "Street Car"
Car #: 52
Year : 1995 Posts: 488
Looking at the factory manual it tells you not to remove the top collars, and to slide the sleeve down using a big bolt, as described in the above posts. The manual goes on to say that if the top collars are removed, the PPF frame assembly should be replaced.
Anyone know why??? Every bit of diff removal advice, and the technique used (including the one I did last weekend on my car)has you taking the two bolts out, prying out the bottom spacer, putting the bolts partly back in, banging to get the top spacers out, and then removing the diff.
What's wrong with doing it this way?
-------------------- -Tosh Desai 2008 NJRRS SM Champion
"Well, you know, because Thunder always comes after... Lightning!"
Tosh, I suspect that the top collars need to be a very tight fit and if you remove them you might end up with a slight bit of play there. That's the only reason I can think of for the words in the shop manual. However, as you noted, lots of us have removed them and then reinstalled them. It was the only way I could get the PPF off of the diff housing since the bolt had totally seized in the lower spacer and had to be cut to get it out.